Verification of transmission fluid level

[john.lewis.24]

2012 Highlander SE V6 2GR-FE:

I am experiencing difficulty in confirming if my transmission fluid level is accurate and would really appreciate any guidance.

I extracted around 4.20 quarts of ATF yesterday at 110°F. I replenished it with 4.2 quarts. Presented are images depicting the volume of fluid extracted, along with the dipsticks before and after, while the gearbox was heated.

Heated dipstick before to drain and fill (2 images):

Volume of ATF extracted:


Dipstick with the addition of 4.2 quarts of ATF WS (3 images):


The perplexing aspect for me is that I reintroduced about the same volume of fluid in a cold state as was extracted in a heated state, hence the dipstick reading should be elevated compared to the prior measurement. In this instance, it seems to be near the lower threshold of the chilly mark after the refill. The fluid level on the first dipstick reading before to the drain and fill seems to be far over the maximum hot mark. Is that typical? Am I misinterpreting this, or do I need to include more fluid?

The recommended fluid amount for this vehicle is between 3.7 and 4.2 quarts for a drain and fill, and around 9 to 9.8 gallons for a new gearbox. I extracted and introduced 4.2 quarts. Is there a discrepancy in volume between new and old ATF?

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I opted to bring the car to the dealer for inspection, where the technician recommended against adding any more fluid, as the reading was satisfactory. He cautioned that excessive fluid may result in seal rupture. I am predisposed to heed his counsel and monitor the temperature to see whether it enters the perilous range. If that is the case, I would increase the fluid at that juncture; but, I am reluctant to proceed at this moment, since I have already added 4.2 quarts, which is the upper limit of the recommended range for a drain and fill.

 

[ABarron]

When draining it when hot, be aware that the fluid volume will be somewhat "expanded". Now that you have reintroduced the cold fluid, it will naturally exhibit a little "decrease." I would operate it for a while, then evaluate and make any adjustments.
I never drain or vacuum it when it is hot. Because, really, I do not concern myself with the stick. I am certain there are no leaks; thus, I use my MightyVac to extract the fluid from the tube, measure the volume extracted, and reinstate the same quantity, ensuring it is ready for usage.
Unless you are encountering really cold weather, there is no need to drain an engine or transmission while it is still warm. Perhaps in the past, but now, it is unnecessary.

 

[john.lewis.24]

I should have noted that the dipstick images showed the fluid at around 120°F.

I relied significantly on the Car Care Nut YouTube channel's guidance for this procedure, since it emphasizes the need of achieving an engine temperature between 104-115 degrees when transitioning through the gears.

Next time, I may proceed without prior preparation to ensure that the output matches the input.

 

[Roninoz]

In my opinion, it should indeed be warmed up after operating for a period of time. This combines the elements and, indeed, heats it, since all components are lubricated. The refilling process differs since the fluid temperature is somewhat lower, although it should remain over the minimum fill line. Operate the vehicle and evaluate its performance, ensuring that the maximum temperature does not beyond the designated limit. That is my comprehension of the matter. I would assert that normal driving should increase to the moderate range.

 

[ltnet356]

Operate the vehicle for a duration, ensuring you engage all gears and allow the fresh fluid to reach optimal operating temperature. Subsequently, verify once again while the engine is operational, and make adjustments as required. To check, remove the dipstick, clean it, reinsert it, and then extract it once again. Identify the level at which the fluid uniformly spans the dipstick. Disregard any contamination exceeding that threshold from the remaining fluid in the tube.

On both occasions I replaced mine, it required around 4.5 quarts to replenish.

 

[john.lewis.24]

Thank you for your response. Both dipstick measurements were taken with the Highlander at operating temperature. The heated measurement of 120°F after the drainage of 4.2 quarts of hot water and the subsequent replacement of 4.2 quarts of cold water was found to be lower than the initial hot reading in that direction.

Contemplating the addition of an additional 0.3 quarts. I understand that the recommended capacity for this transmission is 3.7-4.2 quarts, which causes me to hesitate in adding more fluid despite the low level shown on the line.

 

[strawdog]

The factory handbook instructs to measure the level while the engine is operational. This may be somewhat perplexing if overlooked, since the gearbox has an internal capacity that drains and remains unfilled until all lines are pressed by the operating engine.

 

[strawdog]

 

[ltnet356]

You assert that both measurements are taken with the vehicle at operating temperature. Did you operate the vehicle for a while after adding the fresh fluid, ensuring that you engaged all the gears?

 

[john.lewis.24]

I opted to bring the car to the dealer for inspection, where the technician recommended against adding any more fluid, as the reading was satisfactory. He cautioned that excessive fluid may lead to seal rupture. I am predisposed to heed his counsel and monitor the temperature to see whether it enters the perilous range. If that is the case, I would increase the fluid at that juncture; but, I am reluctant to proceed at this moment, since I have already added 4.2 quarts, which is the upper limit of the recommended range for a drain and fill.

 

[ABarron]

Uncertainty about seal rupture exists; nonetheless, it will result in foaming or cavitation and may manifest as apparent "leaks," which are, in fact, "venting" via the transmission's integrated venting system, leading to external fluid loss. In any event, it is unfavorable. You are fortunate to own one equipped with a dipstick. Leverage it to your advantage like I do.
Acquire a 2.3-gallon Manual Fluid Extractor at harborfreight.com. Extract three or four quarts (I honestly cannot recall the exact quantity), measure it, and reinstate the same amount. Do not preheat it; only extract it without raising the front. Simply extract it. Measure, return the precise quantity, and you are finished. Perform it every third or fourth oil change. It is very affordable and uncomplicated insurance for a long-lived transgender individual. Refrain from purchasing universal fluids from Walmart or automotive supply retailers. Visit your dealer, purchase WS, and use it! I cannot overstate that enough. OEM fluids are superior. You are assured of their safety and capability to service your vehicle. I formerly operated a firm with a now-deceased partner. We serviced several Chrysler automatic transmissions. Numerous problems include "slam shift," "bump shift," and shudders, among others. Approximately 70% of the issues Chrysler had with its "electronic" transmissions were attributable to the use of universal fluids, which were resolved with the application of OEM fluids to purge the generic "compatible" fluid.

 

[gendoc]

I am only recounting my experience with this. Assessing the transmission fluid is a challenging endeavor. Initially, it is necessary to elevate the fluid to the appropriate temperature. Either by allowing it to idle for an extended period or by taking a drive, the fluid may reach the appropriate temperature range. Regardless, after that, extracting the dipstick and obtaining a measurement of the level is equally challenging. It required many tries to get an accurate reading. I had a same circumstance in which I replenished the depleted amount, however it seemed insufficient.

Verifying the fluid while the engine operates and the fluid reaches the appropriate temperature is essential. I have used a laser thermometer to ascertain the temperature.