What is your warm-up protocol?

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nastynatesfish

New member
Sep 5, 2024
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I saw a video including many technicians discussing the warm-up procedures for their own vehicles, and most indicated that they allow the engine to idle until all fluids reach optimal temperatures, which may take up to 10 minutes in certain instances. I find that to be excessive.

I typically wait for the cold start to conclude before starting to drive, exercising caution with gradual acceleration and shifts, refraining from exceeding 3,000 RPM until the oil temperature is completely elevated, after which I enjoy driving.

What is your warm-up protocol?
 
Mine resembles yours. I refrain from increasing the RPMs until the oil temperature reaches 180°F.
 
1. Position the key in the Aux setting. Allow the pumps to operate. Allow the voltage needle to ascend and stabilize.

2. Activate the engine.

3. Await the conclusion of the cold start phase.

Commence driving. Maintain revolutions per minute below 3,000 to 4,000.

5. Upon reaching optimal temperature, enjoy yourself.

For Gen-1 owners, the first step guarantees the engine consistently starts promptly with little cranking. In my experience, there is no need to allow the vehicle to idle after a cold start.
 
Indeed, I overlooked that this is a habitual action of mine! Thank you for enumerating it. Nevertheless, I have seldom, if ever, engaged in this deliberately using a push start button. I appreciate the key ignition on my Gen1!
 
It is reportedly inadvisable to remain seated during a cold start; rather, one should begin driving immediately.

Furthermore, when your cold start is as noisy as mine, it is essential to expedite your actions to avoid irritating the same individual continuously. It is essential to disseminate affection more widely.
 
There is no need to wait for the "cold" idle to stabilize. Contemporary oils are already circulating, and you are only diluting the oil with blow-by due to the piston rings not having heated and expanded enough to create an effective seal against the cylinder wall. Consequently, volatiles infiltrate the oil, diluting and degrading it over time. The most expedient method to facilitate the expansion and sealing of the piston rings is to begin driving. I also maintain low RPMs until the oil temperature reaches a minimum of 140°F and exceed 180°F before reaching the redline. I do not do a full 10K between modifications either. The outcome will significantly rely on the manner and duration of each driving session.

It is important to note that the transmission fluids need much more time to reach optimal temperature than the engine oil, often about 15 minutes or more, depending on the circumstances. The TCU calibration modifies slip for temperature fluctuations until the usual operating temperature is reached (automated gearbox), and the MTF side of the gearbox may likely function from cold without adverse effects. It is advisable to allow all components to heat and expand prior to striking the vehicle.
 
This is the accurate response - I appreciate your acknowledgment! An unheated engine operates inefficiently, which is detrimental for several reasons, including piston ring tolerances; thus, it is essential to reheat the engine promptly while minimizing any danger of damage to components. this enables the engine to function optimally.

Idling an engine to achieve optimal temperature requires much more time than operating the vehicle.
 
I typically start the vehicle, input my location, and ensure I have all necessary items, which takes less than a minute. Consequently, I will go. Maintain comfort and keep the engine revolutions low until the temperature stabilizes. Subsequently, go to dynamic or performance mode and proceed with vigor.
 
Enter the vehicle, insert the key, shift into reverse, and proceed without delay. I then fasten my seatbelt while driving. I lack the time to be idle and do not believe it has any significant impact.
 
Ignite the vehicle and proceed to drive away. Adhere to the <6000rpm warning on the dashboard display.
 
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